Points on the Line Ruminations
on some deliniations of the West Coast
As part of its contribution to an upcoming
exhibit, called Baja to Vancouver, which will be travelling to
a number of art museums (from Baja to Vancouver) starting later
this year, the CLUI has been examining the landscape along the
West Coast of the United States. Field researchers from the Center
have been filling in the gaps in the Center’s photographic
and text archives, completing a study of the land use of West
Coast of the United States - the coastal line itself.
Depending on who you ask, the
West Coast is 1,200 miles long, as a minimum, or 8,000 miles long,
if you include the bays and estuaries up to the head of tide.
Even though we know it must have some finite length, there is,
in truth no way to accurately measure the length of the coast.
How minutely do you measure the facets of each peninsula, each
rock, or each grain of sand? Some, for example, say Washington
State has 157 miles of coast. If you add up all the islands and
the estuaries, this number is over 3,500 miles. A recent googling
of the phrase “how long is the coastline of Washington State”
returned a single web page, one that describes the Mandelbrot
set, the Van Koch Coastline model, and other mathematical structures
related to fractals and chaos theory. Some of which, interestingly,
suggest that the length of the coastline of Washington State may,
theoretically, be zero. And, in a sense this is so. The coast
is always operating at a loss. No matter what, the coastal structures
will, someday, slump into the sea. It is a negative infinity.
Looking west at the last structures along the
USA/Canada border, Point Roberts, Washington.
CLUI photo by Steve Rowell
Longitude, North to South
One system of abstract measurement that can be applied to the
coast with a great degree of certainty is longitude. These unwavering
lines radiating out from the poles, round the girth of the planet
in invisible stripes, whose location relative to the ground can
be measured down to the foot. Within this system, there are certain
parts of the coast that really stick out. Cape Flattery, in Washington
State, is the westernmost point of land on the Lower 48. The Makah
Indians own this land, a tribe in the headlines a few years ago
for beginning traditional whale hunting again. The peninsula is
accessible by a dirt road, and then a path, which leads to a rustic
natural overlook platform, an interpretive site built for visitors,
which describes the history of the tribe, but makes no reference
to the location’s geographically superlative quality.
The coast of Oregon, though rocky and jagged, is relatively
straight overall, compared to California and Washington. Few deep
natural harbors exist, and thus no major cities have developed
on the coast. Features that attest to the abruptness of the Oregon
coast include the “world’s smallest harbor,”
Depoe Bay, and the “world’s shortest river,”
the D River at Lincoln City, only 150 feet long. The Oregon coast
does have a longitudinally significant site, however, Cape Blanco,
near the southern corner of the state, which is the second most
westerly point on the West Coast of the United States. At the
tip of Cape Blanco, as is common at rocky points up and down the
coast, is a lighthouse, built to warn ships away from the shore.
Being such a westerly landmark, the lighthouse was also used by
a Japanese submarine captain to locate his sub along this unfamiliar
coast on one evening in the fall of 1942, in the midst of World
War Two. The submarine surfaced and unloaded a pontoon airplane
from its deck. The pilot of the small bomber turned south at the
Cape Blanco lighthouse, and flew another 50 miles to a strategic
point above the forest, near Brookings, Oregon, and dropped an
incendiary bomb, intended to set the Pacific Northwest, and its
vast supply of wood, on fire. Though a small fire was started
by the bomb, the moisture of the forest kept it from spreading
quickly, and it was easily extinguished by firecrews.
There are around 50 lighthouses on the West Coast of the United
States, marking westerly points, all of which have been automated
(no longer requiring a tender - the “house” part of
“lighthouse”), and all of which are maintained by
eager lighthouse enthusiasts and historians, who regard these
beacons with a level of affection unsurpassed by other forms infrastructural
architecture. Within California’s Lost Coast, the largest
stretch of coastline without a paved coastal road, the lighthouse
at Cape Mendocino marked the westernmost point of land in California
for over 100 years. It was automated in 1951, and the keepers
dwellings were burned down in 1960 to keep squatters out. The
lighthouse was completely abandoned in the 1970’s. In 1998,
the lighthouse was moved from this remote, inhospitable spot by
lighthouse enthusiasts to a more convenient location 35 miles
down the coast, in a park at the town of Shelter Cove.
Cape Blanco lighthouse, being restored. CLUI
photo
Latitude, North to South
If the West Coast is united by its geographic structure, the chaotic
crumbling coastline, running north and south, it is divided and
segmented by the political and geographic stratifications following
perpendicular lines, like those of latitude. At the northern end,
the longest, straightest international boundary in the world dives
into the ocean at Blaine, Washington, after passing through symbolic
gates within the curious monument called the Peace Arch (a large
white monument built by Sam Hill, in the “no mans land”
on the lawn between the northbound and southbound traffic lanes).
After crossing the shoreline railroad tracks (where the border
line is marked casually in pink spray paint), and invisibly spanning
the tidal mud flats, the international boundary makes landfall
again at a curious geographic remnant called Point Roberts, a
six square-mile community at the tip of a British Columbian peninsula
that falls beneath the 49th parallel, thus creating a fragment
of Washington State that can be reached by land only by travelling
through Canada.
A few hundred feet west of the Peace Arch, pink
spray-paint marks where the "continental" USA/Canada border
runs out of dry land. Unmanned, flagged towers and Point Roberts
are visible in the distance. Blaine, Washington. CLUI photo by Steve
Rowell
The next major political boundary to the south is
the state line between Washington and Oregon, a series of segmented
survey vectors which weaves through the Columbia River, angling
around islands and nearly touching the riverbank. At the mouth of
the Columbia, the second largest river in the country, the state
line passes by Cape Disappointment and the Louis and Clark Interpretive
Center, at the end of the explorers journey west. Then the line
dissolves into the ocean, having become meaningless.
The state line between Oregon and California is in the middle of
the mythical state of Jefferson, a mildly serious successionist
area composed of several Northern California and Southern Oregon
counties, that has been independence-minded since the 1940’s.
The boundaries of the State of Jefferson, however, have not been
agreed on, and are therefore impossible to locate. The Oregon/California
state line was established at 42 degrees of latitude, but corrections
for surveying inaccuracies make the nearly straight, 350 mile east-west
line wobble a bit, changing course within a limit of just a half
a minute of latitude. At the coast, the line hits the pavement of
the coastal highway, visible with the usual overlapping change in
the pavement from one highway department’s asphalt to the
other, then it passes invisibly through some trees, across a beach,
and into the ocean.
The gate to Point Conception, kept locked by
the owners of Bixby Ranch. CLUI photo
There are other latitudinal striations along
the coast of course (county lines, military perimeters, national
forests, towns), but the next one of note, continuing north to
south, could be the poetically named physical protruberence called
Point Conception, where the coast makes a nearly right angle turn,
heading east, transitioning from Northern California, to the urban
Southland. This remote peninsula, just south of Vandenberg Air
Force Base, is inaccessible to the public (except by the Amtrak
train), on a massive, privately owned ranch. Its lonely lighthouse
and the ruins of some oil infrastructure are exposed on a treeless
plain. Below the cliffs is what some claim to be the best surfing
spot on the coast, but there is nowhere to park for miles.
At the bottom of the west coast of the country is the border
with Mexico, a few miles after the last coastal apartment blocks
of the suburbs of San Diego, and the last military helicopter
practice field, and the chaotic, polluted estuary of the river
that flows out of Tijuana into a sewage treatment plant on the
American side. A small bluff above the beach has a park, on the
US side, a stone obelisk monument brought around Cape Horn in
the 1800s to mark the border authoritatively, and the steel fence,
composed of military surplus Vietnam War era runway landing mats,
which plunge into the sea, a “running fence,” if there
ever was one.